Continue our journey through the best pizzerias in Rome with Sforno.
Never as in this case the word trip is appropriate, for a bit us Romanocentric to get to via Statilio Ottato, a cross of Palmiro Togliatti closer to the ring road that in the center, it was not just a walk.
But lately it turns like this: it seems that the gourmet pizzerias that are rising in the capital in recent years (sforno was born in 2005) find a better humus in the neighborhoods a bit ‘more far than the now very expensive historic center. Such as the great adversary of Sforno, the excellent Fucina (click here for the review) based in the Gianicolense. Perhaps because to survive as a pizzeria in the neighborhood you have to focus on quality, while in the historic center there are the most famous Roman low cost pizzerias (Baffetto, San Carlo, Leoncino, Moro etc.) that now enjoy their loyal customers that fight to eat a pizza with tourists. No matter if Pizza is not such good as other restaurant.
Let’s start immediately from a fact as relevant as subjective: here in Sforno I ate without any doubt the best Pizza Margherita (7.5 euro) found in Rome. And the amount of guides stuck on the entrance door of Sforno are certainly not random.
The dough is light and delicious, more similar to that of Neapolitan pizza compared to the thin one of Roman pizza.
In short, an amazing Pizza Margherita that reminds a bit of that of Gatta Mangiona (and no wonder that part of the owners of Sforno, who also gave life to Tonda in Montesacro, are the same as Gatta Mangiona).
We found instead slighly heavy (we will forgive me the many admirers), although brilliant in the realization, one of the creations for which Sforno has become so famous: the famous pizza cacio e pepe (12 euro). Well presented, cut in tasting mode with the pepper to be grinded in the middle of the plate, in our view does not allow you to eat a whole pizza because of the very strong taste. In fact, the cheese is not diluted with Parmesan, as it often happens in pasta with cheese and pepper, and the result is a rather heavy pizza, although very interesting in the preparation method. The pasta is in fact baked with ice on it, and the cheese is added only afterwards, after having taken it out of the oven. Even if we did not particularly appreciate it, this does not mean that – especially if you are many and you can share it – once in your life it must be absolutely tested.
Very special also the second special pizza we tasted, Greenwich (12 euros), appreciable for the originality of the ingredients and the final result: blue stilton (cheese of English production that recalls the Gorgonzola), mozzarella and port reduction. The reduction of port will dilute the strong taste of the cheese by lightening the pizza. The result convinced us, also thanks to the consistency of the pizza base of Sforno that allows to “hold up” even tasty condiments like that of Greenwich.
Apart from these technicalities as a pizza expert which I’m doing while not being, I point out that the place is rather confusing. The acoustics, especially if your neighbors are not lords – as they were not – is not good and being able to be understood from your neighbor will not be obvious. The service seemed rather heterogeneous, we passed in a few minutes from a plate with the appetizer literally pulled on the table to the care of a waitress who recommended the desserts with great kindness.
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Excellent selection of beers, while the fried vegetables we read so well on other sites (our lovable competitors) have not convinced us so much. Separate titles deserve the supplì: simple (2,5), all’ortolana (2,5), gricia (3), leeks and provola (3) radicchio and speck (3,5) and asparagus and taleggio ( 3.5). Very crispy, dry and delicious.
For the rest, the menu goes with the traditional pizzas of the tradition, dividing among the white (zucchini flowers, buffalo and pachino, boscaiola, zucchini, four cheeses, gorgonzola, etc.), the reds (tomato, capricciosa, diavola, daisy with buffalo, ortolana, siciliana, etc.), focaccia (rosemary, onions, potatoes, raw) and calzoni (Neapolitan and raw).
Also on a blackboard in the room are indicated the pizzas of the day, always very imaginative.
The desserts are particularly noteworthy, especially the ricotta and pear cake (5), the Pizzo Calabro ice cream (5), the tiramisu and the custard cream (5).
P.S. Sforno arrived in the final in a competition between Lazio and Campania pizzas organized by Dissapore. We just have to go and try their Neapolitan adversary: the legendary Sorbillo!
Sforno
SERVICE: a question of luck (some very kind waitress and some kindly waitress)
PARKING: not particularly demanding
PRICE: from 15-25 (depends mainly on the beers you choose!)
ADDRESS: via Statilio Ottato 110 Rome
CLOSING DAY: Sunday
TELEPHONE: 0671546118
POSITIVE: excellent pizza, reasonable prices without cover, excellent desserts
NEGATIVE: local with bad acoustics, service not always impeccable, out of the way (at least for us!)
PLATE NOT TO BE MISSED: perfect margherita
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