Imagine a gray November in Milan… cold, rain and a sky that never opens.
I was there for work, at the beginning… in a period of particular stress and pressure. I can assure you that allready at the starter a nice smile has returned on my face.
I went there without fail, I had recommended that Nicolò had been there before and had little ate an unbeatable – he said – and chestnut risotto with chocolate that I never had the honor to find in the menu, because – and this is only the first of many features – the Menu changes every one to two months, how can tell Maida Mercuri’s ironic and smiling sommelier and manager of the restaurant.
The Osteria is right on the canals and comes with a retro teaches that very appropriate to the interior. The restaurant keeps it the appearance of a historicinn, with tables wood, paper placemats and napkins burgundy, the rustic and the walls lined with shelves on which are set in the bottles of wine. Just to remember that Maida was one of the younger women Sommelier of Italy.
While we waited to order brought us the bread basket,a smallwonder for variety and creativity:
Grissini Spelt, sandwiches curry, micro savory croissants (not mini… micro!) and I do not know how other varieties presented on display on awooden board. I have tasted them all together with a colleague really gourmet. And they invented and drinking a glass of yellow Ribolla I noticed an internal window, whichopens directly on kitchen, which allows you to peek a bit of all the extraordinary workthat is behind each dish.
Why the Pont de Ferro nothing is left to chance. You thought to have entered a normal Lombard tavern… saffron risotto, schnitzel, dumplings… None of this… But much much more.
Your palate is assigned to a melting pot of chef: starting from the first chef Matias Perdomo (Uruguay) – the innovative spirit of the kitchen, the second chef – I had the honor of know personally – Simon Press (Argentina) – a man full of poetry, and then drops all the other components of the kitchen from the countries most diverse… except for sweet … shaped by the skilled hands of a young chef bell.
So get ready to surprise, to try new combinations, and playing with flavors such as not I had my facts. Because at the Pont de Ferr the kitchen is also architecture and decompose reconstruct, deconstruct and restructure… and the eye wants its part.
And here is the first surprise: the caramelized red onion with goat cheese fresh, a delicate sugar shell fusiform lilac with the same blown art glass masters of Venice, which contains a mix of sage and onion caprine.
The delicate ravioli stuffed skin of boiled milk and served with pumpkin sauce Mantua, black sesame served on a small slab of stone, as if they were just placed… 7 pieces of genuine pleasure.
Or something more classic, Spaghettoni wheat of Comm. Benedetto del Salento Knights with anchovies, squid, garlic, olive oil and red pepper, less extraordinary but with excellent creaming.
And you will feel truly pampered, the Pont de ferr, and it is tradition to open the entrance to the flat a little taste… a pre-starter (in our case creme brulee of foie gras with jam figs or parmesan) and a pre sweet, almost to cleanse the mouth by the taste of seconds, and we are pleasantly touched a small cup of fresh cream mousse with kiwi almonds.
But the fireworks were yet to come. The desserts will leave you breathless… I order a tarte tatin with apple and what I get? This wonder!
The same art by master glass blowers, used for the red onion, this time is to recreate the apple tarte tatin before the origin, where the same is contained tarte tatin. What’s missing? ah yes the pastry… and it has become frozen and accompanies it all.
That will seduce you completely, ten cum laude.
It is to click on the sweet… For example, the legendary cigar stuffed with chocolate mousse chocolate tobacco (Montecristo) with rum ice cream, chocolate cake from the warm heart served with a special ice cream.
The Tiramisu: sponge soup, cream of macaroons, crisp chocolate, ice cream and mascarpone and coffee. Well… I’m trying to find some excuse to return to Milan just to come back!
One of my favorite restaurants, where 26 years of great management, a search a search of major raw materials and a great love for innovation and creativity have truly a miracle. A little costly. But it really deserves everything he takes.
Pont De Ferr
PHONE: 02 89406277
ADDRESS: Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 55 20143 Milano
PARKING: it is not easy… the restaurant is in a pedestrian zone
COST: 40-55 € (for a full meal including wine)
CLOSING DAY: NEVER